In Póvoa de Varzim, the history of the pullover dates back to the 18th century, when fishermen wore sweaters they made themselves using local wool, adorned with simple patterns inspired by nature.
In the 18th century, fishermen's sweaters.
Made from Serra da Estrela wool, sold in thick skeins and known as "Poveira wool," the pullover is exclusively crafted in Azurara, a small village of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants near Vila do Conde. It is then embroidered by the elders of Póvoa de Varzim, who are too old to go out to sea.
Credit I A Voz da Póvoa
Its patterns are inspired by traditional Minho designs, seen on Barcelos pottery, lover's handkerchiefs, and peasant shirts. Birds, flowers, vases—everything surrounding the embroiderer serves as a source of inspiration.
1892: Doomed by Tragedy.
On February 27, 1892, tragedy struck the village of Póvoa de Varzim: 105 fishermen lost their lives at sea, causing a nationwide outpouring of grief. By order of Queen Amélia, the Institute for Shipwreck Rescue (ISN) was founded, and the traditional white garment was banned as a sign of mourning.
It was only in 1936, with the creation of the Poveiro Folklore Group, that António Santos Graça revived the original Poveira shirt.
Post-War: An International Icon
Six years later, in 1942, the film Ala-Arriba was awarded at the Venice Film Festival, helping to introduce the Camisola Poveira beyond Portugal's borders.
Credit I Arquivo do Museu Municipal da Póvoa de Varzim
The embroidered Camisola Poveira soon captivated a broader audience, both nationally and internationally. New patterns emerged, incorporating maritime elements such as boats, anchors, ship wheels, and fish, further enriching its aesthetic.
In 1968, Princess Grace of Monaco, photographed wearing a Poveira pullover, helped elevate its prestige and recognition worldwide.
20th Century: Oblivion and Revival
Over time, however, it lost popularity and became gradually confined to "nostalgia tourism." It was mainly purchased by emigrants from Póvoa de Varzim. Its trade slowly faded, and it survived only in a few local tourist shops.
Aware of this threatened cultural heritage, the municipality of Póvoa de Varzim launched several initiatives to revive this unique tradition. The pullover became a local symbol, worn at all community events. Its originality, authenticity, and quality once again captured people's hearts.
The Camisola Poveira can now be found in all of the country's tourist attractions. The wool used is no longer always of good quality, the patterns have diversified, and low-quality counterfeits threaten the pullover's image.
Credit : Voz da Póvoa
Today: Once Again an Icon, but Protected.
The Póvoa de Varzim City Hall then made radical decisions, establishing a set of standards that require the Camisola Poveira to be made exactly as it was 150 years ago.
The wool can only come from Serra da Estrela, the pullover must be knitted and then hand-embroidered, the red, white, or black patterns must follow the historical designs, and it can only be made in Póvoa de Varzim.
Credit I C.M. da Póvoa de Varzim
Today, only a few accredited artisans are allowed to create the authentic Camisola Poveira, provided they adhere to the specifications. In exchange, each piece is delivered with a numbered certificate of authenticity, identifying the artisan who made it.
These requirements make it instantly recognizable. Its design blends the simplicity of plain knitting and straight lines, with raglan sleeves and a neckline closed by small twists. The embroidered decoration on the chest, sleeves, and neckline adds brightness without compromising its simplicity.
